Adham's Blog

AdhaMexiCovid 04: Tales from Oaxaca

Tuesday 17.02.2021.. time flies..
It is exactly 8:00 am and I am waiting in a parking lot for my carsharing ride. Joel was a bit late but he was nice. We both waited for the third passenger. Imagine this with me. A car with a couple came. The guy cmae first with the luggage while the girl stayed in the car. It seemed like masculine announcement of possession! Then he went back to the car to bring his lady, opened the door for her, she stepped off, and after a few steps walking together, he went on his knees to tie her shoes!! I am not sure if this is an act of gentlemanhood or if he simply didn’t want her to bend in public. I understand both motives, in a world where both being a gentleman /a proper lady are forgotten arts of living.

Four hours of driving in the desert among mountains, hills and valleys covered with dispersed cactus trees. Then we were in Oaxaca. The trip was paused here to watch the champions league games. I had both games playing simultaneously on two screens while I enjoyed a typical Oaxaqueño lunch. My afternoon was chilled afterwards. I met Chris from Couchsurfing. A half french, half finnish born in Sweden. He has been traveling Mexico for a year. We spend a few hours around the city eating mediocre cake, tasty street food and looking for some night-time action. We had no luck. Who parties on Tuesday?? Nobody in Oaxaca!

Wednesday 18.02.2021

Given the slow pandemic life, I decided to go with a guided tour, hoping to learn a thing or two, see a thing or two, and talk with person or two. It was evident from the beginning that I was the only non spanish-speaker. Our young guide was repeating everything in a bad English for me. I actually understood the same amount if he spoke English or Spanish. I told him to just go on in Spanish and I will be happy with whatever I get.
Our first stop was Monte Albany. A historical site with ruins dating around 300 BC. The ruins are not really magnificent in themselves. For me the stories around them are more interesting. I drifted with my imagination to how the normal life was in these times. Not hero’s or history makers. Just he regular hi!and like you and me who love, hate, fear and hope.

“Dear Rosa

I am sad I had to leave you in the small pyramid after our last kiss on the monkey day. I am even sadder that this might be our last kiss in case I win the flaming ball game tomorrow. As you know, it is a decisive game. If we win, we will be honored and sacrificed to the gods by our tribe. We will then be Immortal in the next life. If we lose, we will be enslaved by the opponents. It would be a shame. My heart, eternally loving you, is now ready to be placed on the sacred golden plate.
In either case, in glory or in chains, I love you till my last breath.

Yours, always,
Antonio”

***

The day included visits to a pottery workshops, a carpet workshop and a fabrique for Mezcal, a typical alcoholic beverage. I have been to similar workshops in many countries so my day in this aspect was not remarkable. Here and there I socialized with the group.specizlly a Columbian couple who lived in Austria and speaks German and a Chilean couple who happened to be doctors as well. For lunch we stopped at a local buffet for typical food. Giovanni told me he also does not eat pork because he gets an allergic reaction from it. We both ordered the same beef soup. It was delicious but I doubted that the pieces of fat swimming there might be pork fat. I just finished my soup and didn’t give the matter much attention. When we left the restaurant, Giovanni reacted allergically with red spots on his skin! My doubts were confirmed.

We also so a hug tree that is around 40m wide and also a similar height. Estimated to be 2000 years old, It is not the biggest, neither the oldest in the world. Still magnificent.

I concluded the day with a fine dinner in Zandunga restaurant. The consistency of the chicken was unmatchable in my experience. I felt peaceful and content. Tomorrow I fly to Chiapas!

AdhaMexiCovid 03: Ugly Angels, a Big Pyramid and a Volcano

I jetlaggedly woke up around 6am, did some morning routine and then went for a walk in Puebla hoping to get some breakfast. Well, I didn’t. Everything was closed till almost 9am. Today is also a COVID solidarity day by the government where shops had to close by law. I honestly didn’t understand this but didn’t care enough to research it either.

Puebla is said to be built in one of the oldest inhabited regions in the Americas. But it is built by the colonial Spanish. The history is intriguing, complicated and full of legends. It is also called the city of Angels. The cathedral is one of the biggest in Mexico.I walked the grid-shaped empty streets. They buildings in the historical center are one or two stories and are colourful with many beautiful architectural touches. I took some bad photos.

The market is always a colorful and interesting place to be. You see the locals dealing, negotiating and buying things that I didn’t know how they will cook. But it is a buzzing environment. I stopped at how they presented the fresh whole chicken with their heads dangling over the counter!!

My first though was that I am happy I am not a chicken. Then I remembered the German song that says “I wish I were a chicken 🐔”. It says: I wish I were a chicken and didn’t have much to do. I would put an egg everyday and two eggs on Sunday, hehehehe.

I wish I were a chicken

Next to Cholula, an adjacent town with an interesting history. It is also where my friend Aldo studied. Similar grid shaped historical center that connects the many churches. This town had so many pyramids among them the great pyramid of Cholula. It is said to be the biggest pyramid by volume in the world. As an Egyptian, I didn’t take this information wekcomingly and I became skeptical without any knowledge or truth-seeking attitude.

The Spanish came, they saw the pyramids and decided to build churches on top of each of them. To do that they enslaved the locals and killed them after they were done. This is why the locals took a looong time to finish the churches and revenged by making ugly angel statues. Well this all is a legend and probably most of it is not true. But this is just a fun blog not a history book, hehe.

As you can see, this is permanently borrowed from alamy.com

It was said that there are 356 churches and the city has as many saints that are celebrated everyday. But this is not really true. They are less than 50. Most of them are now closed because of the pandemic. The streets are empty. I walked a bit then went to have a local Mole Poblano in Frida Kahlo Restaurant. The waitress met me at the door and told me “well, officially we are closed today by law, but I could have you in a hidden table from the backdoor”. I liked the evil illegality and went for it. She even did this evil hand gestures of opposing finger tips like a wave!

The mole Poblano was a nice piece of chicken covered with chocolatey sauce with sesame. It was delicious combined with a refreshing fresh maracuja-Mango juice.

With a full stomach I strolled a bit around Cholula and then went to see the nearby Volcano 🌋 visible from the city. The Popocatépetl. I took a bad photo of it, I leave you both mine and the internet photo as a reminder that real life is not perfect, hehe.

I went back back to Puebla for the night. Tomorrow I go Oaxaca.

AdhaMexiCovid 02: Love and Tacos

The moment I stepped out of the hotel, a reflex smile transformed my face.
Pure blue sky with a gentle warming winter sun. I started walking towards the historical center without a particular aim. The streets here are clean but sometimes broken or irregular. I found this imperfection somehow pleasant. Two thoughts came to my mind. The first was what Marika once said in the streets of Milan; “when there is less order in the street, I feel comfortable when everything is perfect I feel pressure to be perfect as well”. I also remember the code that I have read in my teenage; “chaos breeds life..order creates habit”.
When you live long enough in countries with impeccable order like Germany and Switzerland, you forget how the situation in the rest of the world is. But this perfection somehow becomes the norm and you only notice what goes wrong. If the world around you is full of broken and irregular, you become more tolerant.

It is a calm Sunday morning, the street are quite but studded with street-food stalls. I didn’t trust my immune system yet. I need a couple of days before I completely dive in.
Many cafes are serving breakfast for tables on the streets. No inside seating due to Corona. Although I have already had breakfast in the hotel, I needed to re-live some sense of normality! I went for a second breakfast with a small came, a cappuccino and some fun rays. At that moment, I needed nothing else!

I spend the day walking around Mexico City. Moving between plazas and different neighborhoods. I enjoyed particularly the architecture in the historical center. The city is also very clean, even in small poor neighborhoods.
My wake was quiet eventful, a group of young girls practicing dancing on the street. Homeless people occupied some main street and filled it with tents, a police raid with motorbikes on street vendors while those just disappeared intwo seconds beforehand..based on an alarming whistle from an informing watchman. This reminded me of Egypt where you are guaranteed to witness some action if you hang out in the street long enough. Chaos breeds life again.

They agreed to dance for you guys!

It is Valentine’s day. Here it is not just loves day but also friendship day “dia del amor y la amistad”. The streets were full of lovers holding hands and sometimes matching T-shirts. Families went to the streets with children and everyone is eating tacos! I ate a couple of meals and hoped that pork was not part of my meals. Not sure since my Spanish is barely enough for survival.

The COVID measurs are strict he and people are conformant. Everyone is wearing a mask even in the fresh air in the street. I only saw a couple of people without a mask. When entering restaurant, they put disinfectant gel in your hand. This gel smells disgusting mostly. One restaurants with spraying people even. Like spraying their clothes. One guy even turned around and they sprayed his ass which left me perplexed.

They also measure your temperature with this thermometer gun.i came to know that my average body temperature was 36! One guy measured me, when I asked how much, he said 33! Fair enough. It reminded me of the guy at the door of the COVID test center in Zurich who asked me if I was in contact with risk groups like kindergartens or nursery homes.I said “worse, I am a doctor and work with COVID patients” this left him somehow confuse and my answer had no consequences! Many of us just follow clear orders literally!

I decided to leave Mexico City for the moment and discover the rest later with Marika. I took the evening bus then to Puebla which seems to be an exciting destination with interesting stories.

AdhaMexiCovid 01: Resumption

I woke up tired after a long shift yesterday.. quickly packed my tiny backpack and headed to get an antigen COVID test before my flight.
Despite all the lockdowns, the restrictions and the blanket of sadness that has descended upon us, I have decided to travel again. It is dangerous indeed. It might be slightly irresponsible. But what is life without living? I guess this last sentence summarizes many of my opinions, also my advices to my patients.
I write these words on my first leg flight to Mexico. A new adventure I am very much looking forward to. I promised myself to indulge it into pleasures of the taste without counting calories.. I would like to re-establish my forgotten relationship with the sun.. and I hope to be enriched by meaningful encounters with special people.
For this trip, I have very few plans for two weeks. The first week I will be on my own discovering what life throws in my direction. The second week I will be joined by my beautiful and special lady Marika. Having received some insider travel tips from my good friend Aldo, I am excited.

Having fullfilled the requirements of the transit in Amsterdam ( 2 negative COVID Tests; one PCR within the last 72 hours and one negative antigen test within the last 4 hours), It is comforting to know that all co-passengers are probably COVID-free. It is impressive how we adapted to this new shitty situation to the degree that we forgot how normal life looked like. I bet you are like me feeling strange when you see a movie and two people come too close face to face, or shake hands. Anyway, I am going to get a taste of another aspect of life in the pandemic, traveling.

Long flights are boring. I would always prefer many connections rather than one long flight, even though it imposes a higher risk of missing a connection. At least I would move more and have more input.
I landed in Mexico City Airport. Crossing the immigration control was smooth and friendly and ended with “welcome in Mexico” from the officer. Me being a holder of an Egyptian passport, it’s not trivial to move between countries.
The airport and the metro stations were very clean. I don’t know why this is surprising.. I guess in this trip as well I would be confronting my prejudices.
The two metro stations that I saw were interesting. One was almost an exhibition about space, physics, history of the humanity and origin of the universe. They even had multiple diagram explaining the LHC and Higgs boson. The other station had a lot of art paintings and photography of graffitis. The people in the metro seemed to be regular tired citizens. Looking at their hands you could see they had manual jobs. In Arabic we say “Time has eaten and drank on him” or some like this. Which means he has undergone many time- and weather induced transformations, increasing entropy

So that the regular guy understands physics

I went directly to the hotel hoping for a moderate jetlag and not having to try pills. Tomorrow I will think about a plan for tomorrow. Good night for me, morning for most of you.

Air

Oh nurrrse!

Signor Carlo says he can’t breathe..
He might be the next in line..
Or maybe that Signora..
in bed number nine..

Oh God!

We will have to decide again..
The healthy or the friend?
or that young man in pain?
oh God!
Your job of decision,
is too hard for a man..

They just keep on coming..
we try but in vain..
This emergency unit..
is a station of pain..
a gateway for heaven..
more loss than we gain..

Air is now gold..
and gold is just air..
it seems that in death,
this virus is fair!..

Oh Air!

we took you for granted..
we just didn’t care..
we cut more than we planted..
you damned us with fear..

Oh God..

Tie down these death angels..
that you have unleashed..
The lessons are mastered..
This virus has preached..

These numbers are rising..
We are in despair..
We never have thought..
we would run out of air..

Get Me Out of Here!

He overfilled my plate with an exaggerated portion of meat and salad. He was generous, for no reason other than sympathy for another dark-skinned foreigner who had experienced the unwelcoming looks of the locals on the first walk in town.
– “How much?” thinking that was worth a bit more than the usual 5 euros.
– “Let’s make it 3 euros”.
I raised an eyebrow and wondered “Thanks!”
– “Good for you that you are leaving this town tomorrow”
He wasn’t allowed to leave for some years.
– “Hopefully you will leave soon, too!”
****
A great amount of peace.. I am happy I have left that town.. Spreads of green fields with lines of almost perfectly spaced trees.. forests of half naked tall and thin trees crowded with their bare knees to yield black darkness.. and my mind wondering in this train about the point where the east gives way to the west.. where civilization and tolerance are more..

Elshähabi Memorandum 07: From the Top of the World, Adios

Morad and I were satisfied with our time in Cambodia so far. Well, rather full of it! Following Daniel’s (the swiss bar manager in Phnom Penh) advice, was our decision to skip Sihanoukville. He said “it is nice. But it is like Mallorca.. instad of the drunk Germans, you will see drunk Chinese”. We took the night bus to Phnom Penh and chilled our last day in a jacuzzi on a hotel roof, more walking and at the end a nice restaurant with creative Cambodian cuisine. Morad ordered a strange dish with red tree ants followed by another dish of Tarantulas (fried giant spiders). I ordered some duck breasts and wondered why does Morad eat such strange things!? He says “why not?” but he wouldn’t eat crickets for example (cucaracha in Español, one of my favorite words phonetically). Somewhere, each of us draws a line of what he considers disgusting. Disgust is supposed to be a primitive feeling to protect you from unhealthy things that might tamper with your health. However, it could be also disturbance of the sense of beauty, which with some elaboration, could be also referred to an inner compass guiding us to what is healthy or helps our well being. I often think about “beauty”.. it is not extremely necessary for survival.. which makes me question its primitive explanations.

Davide taught me how to look sexy in photos
Does not look so excited, no? 😀

We walked more and more and spontaneously entered a building that seemed to be a mall and turned out to be a casino. Another side of Cambodia with well dressed people and in general rich-looking people. We couldn’t really tell if they were cambodian or chinese. We stopped there for an “award-winning cake” which turned to be almost tasteless. Nonetheless it was entertaining to observe a different aspect of the country.
We flew back to Hong Kong airport and from there we took the ferry to Macau, our third and last destination in this trip. The ferry is around one hour from the airport. At the customs (which is almost always the case) we were both sent with a special officer to a special room. It was not complicated or impolite, it is just the usual treatment. As soon as you arrive at immigration window, the officer looks strangely at your passport and calls someone else to accompany you to the VIP room (:D).In Macau city we got lost a bit, our electronic devices are out of charge and we didn’t manage to find anyone who understand the words “hote” in English. It was impressive the lack of basic English knowledge here. At least this was our impression. After a lot of walking and asking, we managed to arrived to the nice hotel that had a wonderful view over the Macau Tower and a nice lake.

Hello Macau
A nice good morning

***

Good morning Macau, a former Portuguese colony but they drive on the other side of the road (reference being the majority of the world). our first impression was positive. We liked the city and the general atmosphere. We started our day by a long walk to the national art museum. The museum was less impressive than the walk.. It is a city of 5-star hotels and casinos.. Las Vegas of china they said.

Macau, funny looking Grand Lisboa Hotel
planning on robbing those
Morad posing in the art museum

Morad suggested we stop by the Macau tower. We decided to have lunch in the skybar which is a rotating restaurant in the 60th floor overlooking Macau and parts of china. An open buffet with lots and lots of varieties of asian and indian food and diverse choices of deserts. It was an unforgettable experience that we both agreed its worth exceeded both the time and money invested. If you ever go to Macau, have a meal in its 360 restaurant.

After lunch, with full stomachs, we headed to a huge shopping mall where a fashion event was being held. We started with a stroll in the huge mall. Asians are obsessed with expensive brands. They wear a lot of items that show the brand with big font or simply icon items that are quickly identified to be from Gucci or Channel. It seems that it gives them status and prestige. The mall was divided into sections that are themed after famous places. We visited the “Venetian” and the “Parisian” copying Venice and Paris. Having visited the cities themselves in Europe, we were impressed by the mall! A lot of effort was put into making this place a beautiful and luxurious place. It was nice to be there. We walked for almost 5 hours without having a seat. The fashion show was an interesting event featuring the works of probably local designers. The models were not that beautiful nor lively. They seemed to have freshly learned the catwalk and were not very into it. I mean, who am I to judge, but it didn’t look very appealing. The choice of music was excellent on the other hand.Impressed as we were, we decided to leave the mall and head for a place to have coffee and a small snack. Morad suggested the ritz-carlton cafe which was in a walking distance. We discovered that it was inside another mall+casino. We rested there from the day, had some conversations and arguments that didn’t reach a level of fighting and decided to go to the cinema. We watched the “First man” movie with Chinese subtitles (phewww!). The movie was good or Ok :). Annoyingly, on both of our sides, there were people checking their phones. Not even doing something particularly urgent, just checking some old photos or touring different smartphone apps. After the movie, we went home and rested from the full day before our departure in the next day.
***
It is the bye-bye day.. you checkout and take different transportations till you arrive to the airport and fly home. You want to fast-forward it and end up in your bed or in your shower. They way home is usually not very spectacular until you are lined up in the immigration line to leave Macau and you reach the window, they call a guy and they refer us to another window for “Diplomats and handicapped” WTF? It is usually a semi walk-of-shame when you reach the line and they send you somewhere like some criminal or suspect. However, being sent to the “Diplomats and handicapped” window didn’t look that bad since we didn’t look very handicapped (Alhamdulillah). The officer in the Diplomats/Handicapped was a bit stupid (or retarded, I like this word. I am bad.. I know). He was checking our identity, Morad and I. So, he takes first passport, then compares the photo with Morad. OK.. match! Then he takes the 2nd passport and compares it AGAIN with Morad. WTF? I made a gesture that meant (it can’t be that Morad owns the two passports, no?). The officer nodded and gave us the passports with an OK-nodd.

The ferrys and then the flights back to Frankfurt marked the end of our trip. We then split in different directions carrying new memories and experiences. We both felt happy to be in Germany and Germans seemed like the warmest people compared to our experience in Hong Kong and Macau. Now it is time to go back to reality (not really) and jobs.. We hope that you enjoyed reading these blogs and joining us in this trip.. For me, this creates reference-points with many people and triggers nice conversations and reflections.. So, see you offline 🙂

Elshähabi Memorandum 06: The Impressive Temples

After a surprisingly not very tiring 6 hours bus ride, we arrived to Siem Reap. During my last trip in Asia, Cambodia was one of the most remarkable places I have visited in how different it was. This is why I recommended it to Morad when we were planning our trip. I usually don’t see everything. I leave some things to see if I ever come back to the same place. It is also a training for me to be in peace with “missing out”. You know the term FOMO? Fear of missing out. Sibylle, my friend, keeps saying: “Oh, you missed a great evening”. It is OK. I am aware I can’t have all the pleasures in the world. I needed to be in peace with this.

Our first itinerary in Siem Reap was the floating village which is some kilometers out of the city. We needed to buy tickets for a boat to take us to the village and back. The guy selling the ticket was the only unfriendly person we met in Cambodia so far. While we were on the counter, Morad told me “I don’t like this guy” in a voice that he heard and was surprised. I then told him directly “we don’t like you! you are the only unfriendly guy we met in Cambodia”. The guy was with minimal reactions. Then we asked a girl on the counter beside him if we could buy the tickets from her and did an unusual transaction where we gave her the money, she gave to him. He gave her the ticket, she gave it to us. At the end, there was no change in the outcome. But he was a “smug” as Morad says.

On the boat, we had a younger-looking 31 years old “Paul” as a guide and a nameless boat driver with one eye that he rested often by sleeping while driving the boat. Morad was asking me if this casual sleep-driving was ok in this part of the world. Paul gave us a historical and cultural account on the floating village. It is a poor place. Everything in this village is floating over the river; The houses, the orphanage/school, a church, a temple, a place for celebrations, etc. It is a community mostly working with fishing from the nearby lake. Paul himself was/is a fisherman but works now in tourism because he knows a bit of English. He told us a sad story about him losing his parents in a Typhoon hitting the lake in 2011, losing his wife (i didn’t understand how) and having his 5-years old child being put in the orphanage since he had problem with drinking (Paul, not the child).

The tour included a visit to crocodile farm and a catfish farm where locals used the crocodile skin and the catfish meat to make a living. The crocodile looked like statues. They were still, on top of each other and with open mouths that we thought they were plastic until some of them moved.

The rest of that day was chilling and enjoying the local food. We had a Cambodian BBQ dinner where they bring you a metal bucket of flaming coal and put it in some hole in the table. They serve then 7 kinds of raw meet, vegetables, noodles and rice. We had beef, chicken, ducks, shark, squid, frog and kangaroo. You then cook them yourself!

Unfortunately Morad does not party, otherwise I would have hit the dance floor where that latino music is coming. We went to the hotel and prepared for the next day. Where Morad and I had different programs. I have seen Angkor Wat before. So I decided to chill for that day and go to a nice cafe where I could work on some projects I have been putting off for a long time. Morad went to discover Angkor Wat and wrote his story:

Morad says:

” Siem Reap is mostly a modest town except for one particular street. The modesty starts with the hotels breakfast and its coffee, the coffee was abysmal. We joked a little on how a country famous of coffee production, doesn’t have the culture of drinking “good coffee”, however, maybe they find it good!
Today we split again, Adham is going to take care of checking out form the hotel, work somewhere on something while I go on a tour in the rightfully famous Angkor Wat temple(s). Adham has been there before and told me if there is a must see in this country, it is these temples!

I hired a tuk tuk for the day, after “negotiations”, we had a deal. Not being the most social animal, I realized at our first stop (to buy my ticket) that I don’t even know the wanker’s name. Tey, was my driver. Like almost everyone here, very friendly, smiling a lot and has a laid back attitude. Some of the people here are suspiciously nice/kind, you know, so nice that you question how genuine it is!
We drove through the countryside for a few kilometers to the north, the first temple Angkor Wat is an impressive huge group of buildings. To have an idea, the first temple alone is bigger than the actual town Siem Reap!! I wander how much effort, time, mastery and suffering were put into making this place! It’s boiling hot, many people but I think much less than a “usual” day. I needed a few seconds to get to a tower that typically takes a 30 minute queuing! Plenty of people taking pictures, many “professional” photoshoots in the gardens and many couples visiting together. I just walked about not committing to the visit path, my ears catches the odd “fun fact” from local guides giving tours. The atmosphere reminds me of that of the pyramids a little.
I left to the second temple, Angkor Thom, the one with the smiley faces. Much much smaller in itself, but I would say it is my favorite. It has that extra attention to details. Everything is a bit more tidy and elaborate. Less people.. better for me. My ears catches some of these info. Germany renovated these stairs.. Japan renovated that floor..etc. Good to see wealthy countries supporting beauty and culture!

We moved on to the next temples which I skimmed through like an “ok” book. They look similar, less fascinating but still nice. It seems that very few people do make it to the last temple. Around all temples, there are dozens of children selling water, clothes,..etc, dozens of tuk tuks.. by the look of it, almost everyone in this town is making their living off these temples and the tourists.

I told Tey we are done, lets go home, he was happy, we didn’t take very long. He was happier when I told him to drop me at the same place where we met, there he hangs out with his other tuk tuk friends. I had some snacks from the supermarket, as similar as I could find to what I had in Taiwan years ago. Then walked my way through the killing heat to find Adham in the Pub Street. He was working on his laptop in a pub and the whole sitting made him look like a drug lord in Cuba, so rich he just does organization from some restaurant in an oven hot backstreet. We chess..”

Elshähabi Memorandum 05: What Morad Ate

Thankful is what I feel.
It is the first day in Phnom Penh. In our nice but cheap hotel, we could have breakfast and then a relaxed swim in the rooftop swimming pool with a great view over the city. I must admit, this was a luxury that I really enjoyed. It is always the same thought that comes to my mind: “Why don’t I do this more often?”. I have always waited for such trips when I had more time. More than a week off. So that it is “worth it”. These places are far and the flight tickets are not cheap. However, even if it was just a week, it is definitely worth it. Traveling is for me one of the most important investments. It is not only the knowledge, meeting new people or widening one’s horizon. It is the psychological health that results from unplugging yourself, going somewhere far and reordering your life.

Since I have been to Phnom Penh before, we decided to split and have parallel programs for the first part of the day. Morad went to check the Genocide Museum and I went to some cafe to get some things done.
I walked to the cafe. Reliving and experiencing the package of a third world country.. heat, humidity, smell of sewage leaks, bad infrastructure, dirt and garbage. However, i was in a good mood. Almost everyone I passed by or had eye contact with was smiling. Cambodian people (Khmer) are some of my favorite. I got lost, which is one of my hobbies during traveling. I slowed down, and started observing the scenes around me.
A cart full of durian.. around it 3 young men lying on different chairs in positions and using their smartphones.. A man carrying a stick on his shoulder. From each end of the stick hangs a basket with home made bakery that he is selling. He walked around and eye-contacted me without hope that I buy from him. Another guy riding a bicycle that is somehow also his food stall. One cooked chicken was hanging in the air beside his shoulder and shaking comically as he rode on the bumpy road. On its side was what seemed like a bunch of animal intestine that also was shaking. This is not very erotic.
A scene that accompanied us the whole day was seeing men rolling their shirts up and exposing their bellies. Today alone we saw 6 or 7 people doing this. It is hot and I assume they did this to ventilate their bellies :D. Well, these were not six packs.
I finally arrived to the cafe and rested there I met Morad again. He was shocked. Here is his narrative:

“Waking up in a large bed was a joy I missed for the previous two nights, where I could only fit in the entire room in a very specific spot! I might be, as Adham reckons, a spoiled traveler. Particularly when it comes to accommodation. Find a comfortable place to sleep so that you have plenty of your energy and time for activities.

We have different programs for the morning, Adham will do his thing and be reflective and deep. He loves people! almost all of them likes to get to know them and learn from them.
I went to the museum of genocide, a short background, in the 70s, a political group took over Cambodia and anyone who was educated or smart was considered an enemy. The highschool building, turned prison, now the museum, is the place where tourture and killing. It’s one of the most heart wrenching places I’ve been to. Very grimm and sad. Some visitors would pause and cry from what see and hear.

Walking to and from the museum to meet Adham was fun. Batteling the suffocating humidity, I noticed many similarities to Egypt. It’s hot, dirty and loud. People are very kind here. They smile at me, or laugh together at me. A large person walking their street, some even invited me inside (to do what!! :D) others just touched me with curiosity. Being a big man means you are rarely unnoticeable here.
My long walk ended what seemed like a “local Starbucks”, where I met Adham.
“

We relaxed from the hot and humid. A couple of chess games and then a few hours of walking.. to the central market which is just a market with many stalls.. and then the phnom penh riverside. Morad decided to indulge his tastebuds with a few disgusting things. On a cart in the street, there were heaps of fried spiders, bugs, crickets, worms, lizards.. yuk.. He bought a sorted collection of ugly delicacies and we found a place to sit where he can try the taste of each muddafukka.

On the riverside, were some park with gym devices where the public could go and do some exercise. There were many families on the riverside making picnics and having a relaxed time. There was also this woman that was doing a mysterious kind of exercise.

We had a very non local burger before catching our bus to Siem Reap. There the manager was Daniel, a swiss who wanted to travel/stay here for one year and ended up staying for 8 years. We talked a lot about Switzerland and Europe. He gave me also a few advices for the Cambodia trip. I took a super fast Tuk-tuk to the bus station while Morad picked the luggage from the hotel and met me there. We are going to take the sleeping-bus to Siem Reap overnight for 6 hours.

Elshähabi Memorandum 04: Hello Cambodia!

“Adham, wake up! Let’s go to the cable car”.. Morad and I got ready quickly before 9 and went to the street to look for a quick breakfast, checked out and went on our way to the cable car and Big Buddha, or namely Ngong Ping and Tian Tan :). It was a long ride with the Metro and then a long queue waiting for the tickets. When Morad gets bored waiting, he starts punching me in the back. He is passionate about boxing. This was an ice breaker for two american guys in the line, James and Dani, we started chatting.
The cable car ride was gorgeous. Around 25 minutes to the hills where the big Buddha sits 😀 I have a photo from the internet for you since we don’t have any better.

Stolen from the internet. It was a bit cloudy bit still gorgeous

In the hill, we met James and Dani again by accident. They are friends since 45 years and now they are traveling together. They stopped here on the way to Bali. James is married to another man since 28 years. They live in NYC and we had such a short but nice encounter. We exchanged contacts. It is a pity that afterwards we fly out.

We didn’t have much time to go up and say hi to big Buddha.. instead, we took somephotos and headed back to the cable car, experienced more rudeness from some taxi drivers and then took the bus to the airport. It was all last minute that we had to run in the airport to catch the flight. We made it to the gate a few minutes before the scheduled take off. Then the plane was delayed on the runway for 45 minutes. Normal, no?

It is the national cambodian Lanmei. Morad asked me if it was something like Ryanair since they didn’t serve us even a glass of water in more than two hours. The crew was very nice though. We tried to catch some sleep and landed nicely in Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia. My memories from 4 years ago were that it is a very poor country. Most of the smart people were killed by the Khmer rouge in the 1990s. A couple of MILLION people were executed. A sad story that still lives in the lives of many cambodians.
Crossing the borders was smooth, the airport surprised me by having some really beautiful and modern corners. A taxi ride to our hotel costed $15. On the way you could see minor girls riding motorbikes and seemed to be discussing their nail polish. Put your eyes on the road, girl!!
It was a huge contrast between Hong Kong people and Cambodians. Even after few encounters, the people in Cambodia were so polite, so friendly and nice. The taxi driver was very nice and we cracked a couple of jokes and laughed together. The hotel is cheap and great. We sat on the skybar on the roof for a couple of chess games and nice drinks. A few european chicks are also in the hotel but nothing good enough to mobilise our flirting tricks and put them into action. Tomorrow will be a relaxing day for me and maybe more discovery for Morad.

Cambodia is a Kingdom. Its people are Khmer. Which is the ethnicity of around 97% of the people. They are mostly buddhist. The Khmer language is “The language with the most letters is Khmer (Cambodian), with 74 (including some without any current use). According to Guinness Book of World Records, 1995, the Khmer alphabet is the largest alphabet in the world. It consists of 33 consonants, 23 vowels and 12 independent vowels.”
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Khmer_alphabet
In the next few days, I shall try to learn these letters or at least to write my name in Khmer.

Buonanotte

With Big Buddhaaa
Hong Kong Airport