Elshähabi Memorandum 06: The Impressive Temples

After a surprisingly not very tiring 6 hours bus ride, we arrived to Siem Reap. During my last trip in Asia, Cambodia was one of the most remarkable places I have visited in how different it was. This is why I recommended it to Morad when we were planning our trip. I usually don’t see everything. I leave some things to see if I ever come back to the same place. It is also a training for me to be in peace with “missing out”. You know the term FOMO? Fear of missing out. Sibylle, my friend, keeps saying: “Oh, you missed a great evening”. It is OK. I am aware I can’t have all the pleasures in the world. I needed to be in peace with this.

Our first itinerary in Siem Reap was the floating village which is some kilometers out of the city. We needed to buy tickets for a boat to take us to the village and back. The guy selling the ticket was the only unfriendly person we met in Cambodia so far. While we were on the counter, Morad told me “I don’t like this guy” in a voice that he heard and was surprised. I then told him directly “we don’t like you! you are the only unfriendly guy we met in Cambodia”. The guy was with minimal reactions. Then we asked a girl on the counter beside him if we could buy the tickets from her and did an unusual transaction where we gave her the money, she gave to him. He gave her the ticket, she gave it to us. At the end, there was no change in the outcome. But he was a “smug” as Morad says.

On the boat, we had a younger-looking 31 years old “Paul” as a guide and a nameless boat driver with one eye that he rested often by sleeping while driving the boat. Morad was asking me if this casual sleep-driving was ok in this part of the world. Paul gave us a historical and cultural account on the floating village. It is a poor place. Everything in this village is floating over the river; The houses, the orphanage/school, a church, a temple, a place for celebrations, etc. It is a community mostly working with fishing from the nearby lake. Paul himself was/is a fisherman but works now in tourism because he knows a bit of English. He told us a sad story about him losing his parents in a Typhoon hitting the lake in 2011, losing his wife (i didn’t understand how) and having his 5-years old child being put in the orphanage since he had problem with drinking (Paul, not the child).


The tour included a visit to crocodile farm and a catfish farm where locals used the crocodile skin and the catfish meat to make a living. The crocodile looked like statues. They were still, on top of each other and with open mouths that we thought they were plastic until some of them moved. 

The rest of that day was chilling and enjoying the local food. We had a Cambodian BBQ dinner where they bring you a metal bucket of flaming coal and put it in some hole in the table. They serve then 7 kinds of raw meet, vegetables, noodles and rice. We had beef, chicken, ducks, shark, squid, frog and kangaroo. You then cook them yourself!

yum yum

Unfortunately Morad does not party, otherwise I would have hit the dance floor where that latino music is coming. We went to the hotel and prepared for the next day. Where Morad and I had different programs. I have seen Angkor Wat before. So I decided to chill for that day and go to a nice cafe where I could work on some projects I have been putting off for a long time. Morad went to discover Angkor Wat and wrote his story:

Morad says:

” Siem Reap is mostly a modest town except for one particular street. The modesty starts with the hotels breakfast and its coffee, the coffee was abysmal. We joked a little on how a country famous of coffee production, doesn’t have the culture of drinking “good coffee”, however, maybe they find it good!
Today we split again, Adham is going to take care of checking out form the hotel, work somewhere on something while I go on a tour in the rightfully famous Angkor Wat temple(s). Adham has been there before and told me if there is a must see in this country, it is these temples!

I hired a tuk tuk for the day, after “negotiations”, we had a deal. Not being the most social animal, I realized at our first stop (to buy my ticket) that I don’t even know the wanker’s name. Tey, was my driver. Like almost everyone here, very friendly, smiling a lot and has a laid back attitude. Some of the people here are suspiciously nice/kind, you know, so nice that you question how genuine it is!
We drove through the countryside for a few kilometers to the north, the first temple Angkor Wat is an impressive huge group of buildings. To have an idea, the first temple alone is bigger than the actual town Siem Reap!! I wander how much effort, time, mastery and suffering were put into making this place! It’s boiling hot, many people but I think much less than a “usual” day. I needed a few seconds to get to a tower that typically takes a 30 minute queuing! Plenty of people taking pictures, many “professional” photoshoots in the gardens and many couples visiting together. I just walked about not committing to the visit path, my ears catches the odd “fun fact” from local guides giving tours. The atmosphere reminds me of that of the pyramids a little.
I left to the second temple, Angkor Thom, the one with the smiley faces. Much much smaller in itself, but I would say it is my favorite. It has that extra attention to details. Everything is a bit more tidy and elaborate. Less people.. better for me. My ears catches some of these info. Germany renovated these stairs.. Japan renovated that floor..etc. Good to see wealthy countries supporting beauty and culture!

We moved on to the next temples which I skimmed through like an “ok” book. They look similar, less fascinating but still nice. It seems that very few people do make it to the last temple.  Around all temples, there are dozens of children selling water, clothes,..etc, dozens of tuk tuks.. by the look of it, almost everyone in this town is making their living off these temples and the tourists.

I told Tey we are done, lets go home, he was happy, we didn’t take very long. He was happier when I told him to drop me at the same place where we met, there he hangs out with his other tuk tuk friends. I had some snacks from the supermarket, as similar as I could find to what I had in Taiwan years ago. Then walked my way through the killing heat to find Adham in the Pub Street. He was working on his laptop in a pub and the whole sitting made him look like a drug lord in Cuba, so rich he just does organization from some restaurant in an oven hot backstreet. We chess..”

Elshähabi Memorandum 04: Hello Cambodia!

“Adham, wake up! Let’s go to the cable car”.. Morad and I got ready quickly before 9 and went to the street to look for a quick breakfast, checked out and went on our way to the cable car and Big Buddha, or namely Ngong Ping and Tian Tan :). It was a long ride with the Metro and then a long queue waiting for the tickets. When Morad gets bored waiting, he starts punching me in the back. He is passionate about boxing. This was an ice breaker for two american guys in the line, James and Dani, we started chatting.
The cable car ride was gorgeous. Around 25 minutes to the hills where the big Buddha sits 😀 I have a photo from the internet for you since we don’t have any better.

Stolen from the internet. It was a bit cloudy bit still gorgeous

In the hill, we met James and Dani again by accident. They are friends since 45 years and now they are traveling together. They stopped here on the way to Bali. James is married to another man since 28 years. They live in NYC and we had such a short but nice encounter. We exchanged contacts. It is a pity that afterwards we fly out.

Dani, Morad, James and Adham

We didn’t have much time to go up and say hi to big Buddha.. instead, we took somephotos and headed back to the cable car, experienced more rudeness from some taxi drivers and then took the bus to the airport. It was all last minute that we had to run in the airport to catch the flight. We made it to the gate a few minutes before the scheduled take off. Then the plane was delayed on the runway for 45 minutes. Normal, no?

It is the national cambodian Lanmei. Morad asked me if it was something like Ryanair since they didn’t serve us even a glass of water in more than two hours. The crew was very nice though. We tried to catch some sleep and landed nicely in Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia. My memories from 4 years ago were that it is a very poor country. Most of the smart people were killed by the Khmer rouge in the 1990s. A couple of MILLION people were executed. A sad story that still lives in the lives of many cambodians.
Crossing the borders was smooth, the airport surprised me by having some really beautiful and modern corners. A taxi ride to our hotel costed $15. On the way you could see minor girls riding motorbikes and seemed to be discussing their nail polish. Put your eyes on the road, girl!!
It was a huge contrast between Hong Kong people and Cambodians. Even after few encounters, the people in Cambodia were so polite, so friendly and nice. The taxi driver was very nice and we cracked a couple of jokes and laughed together. The hotel is cheap and great. We sat on the skybar on the roof for a couple of chess games and nice drinks. A few european chicks are also in the hotel but nothing good enough to mobilise our flirting tricks and put them into action. Tomorrow will be a relaxing day for me and maybe more discovery for Morad.

Cambodia is a Kingdom. Its people are Khmer. Which is the ethnicity of around 97% of the people. They are mostly buddhist. The Khmer language is “The language with the most letters is Khmer (Cambodian), with 74 (including some without any current use). According to Guinness Book of World Records, 1995, the Khmer alphabet is the largest alphabet in the world. It consists of 33 consonants, 23 vowels and 12 independent vowels.”
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Khmer_alphabet
In the next few days, I shall try to learn these letters or at least to write my name in Khmer.

Buonanotte